Removing Haunching
After removing the mortise hole, the small portion which is called the haunching will require to be removed with a chisel. This calls for no special remark, as it is clearly shown in . shows an everyday type of mortise and tenon joint separated; it is used in cases where a straight joint is required on the upper or lower edge of the work, whereas the upper rail of shows the full haunch on the top edge. In cases such as , where the edges of the frames are grooved to receive panels, etc., the width of the tenon is reduced by the width of the groove.

Fig. 185.—Mortise with Side Removed. |

Fig. 186.—The Joint Separated. |

Fig. 187.—Removal of Haunching. |

Fig. 188.—Haunching with Groove above. |
This must be remembered by the worker when marking out his stiles with the marking knife. (right-hand sketch) shows the haunch, tenon, and groove G at the bottom. (left-hand illustration) shows G (groove) at top, and HH (the haunch) at the bottom. Tenons may be glued together and wedged as shown at if for inside work; but if for outside work they are generally smeared with thick paint and wedged up. For light-class cabinet work it is usual to cut the mortise about seven-eighths of the distance through the stile and make the tenon to match it; the edge of the finished work does not then show any indication of the joint, and it leaves a nice clean surface at the edge of the work for polishing or varnishing.

Fig. 189.—Interlocking Joint for Seat Rails of Chair to Leg.
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Interlocking Chair JointPrevious:
Setting Out The Joint
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