Removing Haunching





After removing the mortise hole, the small portion which is called the haunching will require to be removed with a chisel. This calls for no special remark, as it is clearly shown in . shows an everyday type of mortise and tenon joint separated; it is used in cases where a straight joint is required on the upper or lower edge of the work, whereas the upper rail of shows the full haunch on the top edge. In cases such as , where the edges of the frames are grooved to receive panels, etc., the width of the tenon is reduced by the width of the groove.

















Fig. 185.—Mortise with      Side Removed.

Fig. 185.—Mortise with Side Removed.

Fig. 186.—The Joint Separated.

Fig. 186.—The Joint Separated.

















Fig. 187.—Removal of      Haunching.

Fig. 187.—Removal of Haunching.

Fig. 188.—Haunching with      Groove above.

Fig. 188.—Haunching with Groove above.



This must be remembered by the worker when marking out his stiles with the marking knife. (right-hand sketch) shows the haunch, tenon, and groove G at the bottom. (left-hand illustration) shows G (groove) at top, and HH (the haunch) at the bottom. Tenons may be glued together and wedged as shown at if for inside work; but if for outside work they are generally smeared with thick paint and wedged up. For light-class cabinet work it is usual to cut the mortise about seven-eighths of the distance through the stile and make the tenon to match it; the edge of the finished work does not then show any indication of the joint, and it leaves a nice clean surface at the edge of the work for polishing or varnishing.



Fig. 189.—Interlocking Joint for Seat Rails  of Chair to Leg. Fig. 189.—Interlocking Joint for Seat Rails of Chair to Leg.






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