The Hinged Joint





One of the most common forms of hinged joint in use to-day is that formed by using the "butt" hinge, and many troubles experienced by the amateur, such as "hinge-bound," "stop-bound," and "screw-bound" doors, etc., are due to a lack of knowledge of the principles of hingeing. Hinges call for careful gauging and accurate fitting, otherwise trouble is certain to occur.



A "Bound" door or box lid is said to be hinge-bound when the recess which contains the hinge is cut too deep. The frame and the body portion engage too tightly when closed, the result being that the door has always a tendency to open a little. This fault may be in many cases remedied by packing behind the hinge with one or two thicknesses of good stiff brown paper. For packing purposes such as this paper will be found to be of much more value than thin strips of wood or knife-cut veneer, the latter always having a great tendency to split when a screw or bradawl is inserted.



A stop-bound door is the name applied when the door is not finished to exactly the same thickness as originally intended. This causes the door to bind on the stops at the back, as shown at . The difficulty may be remedied by thinning the door a little at the back, or slightly rounding away the portion which binds.



Screw-bound is a common fault often overlooked by the amateur. It is caused by using screws of which the heads are too large for the countersunk holes in the hinge, and may be avoided by slightly sinking the holes in the brasswork with a countersink or rose-bit.

















Fig. 221.—Stop-bound      Door.

Fig. 221.—Stop-bound Door.

Fig. 222.—Butt Hinge.

Fig. 222.—Butt Hinge.



Fig. 223.—Gauging. Fig. 223.—Gauging.
















Fig. 224.—Marking      for Recess.

Fig. 224.—Marking for Recess.

Fig. 225.—Sawing for      the Recess.

Fig. 225.—Sawing for the Recess.







The Halved Joint The Key Piece facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Feedback