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All Carpentry Page 20
The Saw
With such a commonplace article as the saw, it might be assumed that the ordinary apprentice would look upon instruction with a smile of derision. ...
The Sills
We are going to build what is called a "balloon frame"; and, first, we put down the sills, which will be a course of 2" × 6", or 2" × 8" joists, as in Fig. 229. ...
The Simplest Molding
In Fig. 185 we show a molding of the most elementary character known, being simply in the form of a band (A) placed below the cap. Such a molding gives to the article on which it is placed three distinct lines, C, D and E, If you stop to consider yo...
The Square
The square is, probably, the oldest of all tools, and that, together with the compass, or dividers, with which the square is always associated, has constituted the craftsman's emblem from the earliest historical times. So far as we now know, the pla...
The Starting Cut
In order to make our understanding of the starting cut more explicit, we refer to Fig. 20, in which the thumb of the left hand is shown in the position of a guide—the end of the thumb being held up a sufficient distance to clear the teeth. I...
The Stroke
Make a long stroke, using the full blade of the saw. Don't acquire the "jerky" style of sawing. If the handle is held loosely, and the saw is at the proper angle, the weight of the saw, together with the placement of the handle on the saw blade, wil...
The Studding
The next step is to put the studding into position. 4" × 4" must be used for corners and at the sides of door and window openings. 4" × 6" may be used at corners, if preferred. Consult your plan and see where the op...
The Tail Stock
This part of the structure is made of the following described material: Procure a scantling (J), planed, 4" × 4", 24 inches long, the upper end of which is to be provided with four bolt holes, and a centering hole (15). At the lowe...
The Tenons
Do not neglect first to select the work side and the working edge of the board. The outer surface and the upper edges are the sides to work from. The cheekpiece (A) of the gage must always rest against the working side. The cross marks (B, C) shou...
The Tongue And Groove
This form of uniting members has only a limited application. It is serviceable for floors, table tops, paneling, etc. In Fig. 213, a door panel is shown, and the door mullions (B) are also so secured to the rail (C). The tongue-and-groove method i...
The Tool Rest
This is the most difficult part of the whole lathe, as it must be rigid, and so constructed that it has a revolvable motion as well as being capable of a movement to and from the material in the lathe. Select a good 4" × 4" scantling...
The Tool Rest
This is the most difficult part of the whole lathe, as it must be rigid, and so constructed that it has a revolvable motion as well as being capable of a movement to and from the material in the lathe. ...
The Tools Required
A few simple tools will complete an outfit capable of doing a great variety of work. The illustration (Fig. 246) shows five chisels, of which all other chisels are modifications. A and B are both oblique firmer chisels, A being ground with a bevel o...
The Top
The top should be made of three boards, either tongued and grooved, or doweled and glued together. In order to give a massive appearance, and also to prevent the end grain of the boards from being exposed, beveled strips may be used to encase the ed...
The Torus
Fig. 189, known as the torus, is a modified form of the ovolo, but the lobe (A) projects out horizontally instead of downwardly. ...
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Most Viewed
Roofing Trusses
The Roman-doric Column
Saddle Joint
Proportional Dividers
The Warren Girder
Soft Woods
The Hatchet
Saw Clamps
Least Viewed
The "odd Job" Tool
Great Contrasts Bad
Where Mortises Should Be Used
Front And Side Lines
Hard Wood Imitations
Polishing Stained Surfaces
The Carpenter And Architech
Forcing Saws In Wood