Methods Of Fastening Stock
All the work thus far has been on models where the stock worked upon is held between the live and dead centers. In face-plate and chuck turning the work is done at the head stock only and the piece is supported by means of a face-plate, or chuck, that is fastened to a face-plate, which is screwed onto the end of the live spindle. There are three methods of fastening stock to the face-plate, and it depends upon the nature of the exercise or model to be made which method is used.
<1. SMALL SINGLE SCREW FACE-PLATE. For all work that does not require deep cutting in the center, such as in towel rings, picture frames, etc., the small face-plate with a single screw should be used.
Note:--Should it be found difficult to keep the block from working loose and turning, it is a good plan to fold a piece of sandpaper, grit side out, and place it between the face-plate and the stock.
2. LARGE SURFACE SCREW FACE-PLATE. For all work that does not require deep cutting on the outside, such as exercises, jewel boxes, etc., as well as all large stock, and all stock from which chucks are to be made, the large face-plate with the surface screws should be used.
3. GLUING TO WASTE STOCK. A block of scrap wood is fastened to a face-plate the same as for a chuck and surfaced off square. The block from which the model is to be made is planed square on one side and glued to the block on the face-plate with a sheet of paper between the two. To separate the model from the chuck, after it is completed, place a chisel on the waste stock, 1/16" back of the glue joint at such a point as will bring the chisel parallel to the grain of the model, and strike lightly with a mallet. This will cause the paper to separate and the model to become free.
This method will be found very convenient epecially on models where the base is to be left straight. It will also be found to save much stock when working with expensive woods.
LATHE ADJUSTMENTS
To get the best results in face-plate or chuck turning there should be no end play in the spindle of the lathe. The spindle should always be tested out, and if any play is found, should be adjusted before attempting any work. It is almost impossible to make a true cut when such a condition obtains.
POSITION OF TOOL REST
For all face-plate and chuck turning the tool rest should be kept as close to the stock as possible, the same as in spindle turning, regardless of the angle it may be set. Vertically, the rest in most cases should be sufficiently below the center of the stock to bring the center or cutting point of the tools used, when held parallel to the bed of the lathe, even with the center of the stock. This last condition will necessitate adjusting the height occasionally when changing from large to small tools.
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Adjusting The Tool Rest
<p>Horizontally the tool rest should be set about ⅛" from the farthest projecting corner of the wood and should be readjusted occasionally as the stock diminishes in size. The vertical height varies slightly according to the height of the o... Bolts
<p>Bolts with nuts are useful where great strength is desired. There are three chief varieties, Fig. 230.</p> <div><img src="/images/Handwork/230-200.png" alt="Fig. 230. a. Stove-bolt. b. Carriage-bolt. c. Machine-bolt." width="200" height="396"><br> ... Boring Tools
<p>Some boring tools, like awls, force the material apart, and some, like augers, remove material.</p> <p>The <em>brad-awl</em>, Fig. 125, is wedge-shaped, and hence care needs to be taken in using it to keep the edge across the grain so as to avoid ... Butt Joints
<p><em>No. 8. A doweled butt-joint</em> is made by inserting, with glue, dowel-pins into holes bored into the two members. The end of one member is butted against the face or edge of the other. It is used in cabinet-making where the presence of na... Care Of The Lathe
<p>The lathe should be oiled every day before starting. At the end of the period the lathe should be brushed clean of all chips and shavings, after which it should be rubbed off with a piece of waste or cloth to remove all surplus oil. All tools shoul... Chopping Tools
<p>The primitive celt, which was hardly more than a wedge, has been differentiated into three modern hand tools, the <em>chisel</em>, the <em>ax</em>, Fig. 139, and the <em>adze</em>, Fig. 141.</p> <p>The <em>ax</em> has also been differentiated into t... Cleaning Tools
<p>The <em>bench duster</em>. One may be noted hanging on the bench shown in Fig. 166. Bristle brushes for cleaning the benches are essential if the shop is to be kept tidy.</p> <p><em>Buffer</em>. Wherever a lathe or other convenient revolving shaft ... Dovetail Joints
<p>"Dovetail" refers to the shape of the projections of one member, when looked at broadside. These projections are called dovetails, or merely tails.</p> <p>The projections on the other member are called tenons or pins, and the spaces between both... Duplicate Turning
<p>Under the head of duplicate turning have been classified only such models as clearly indicate the necessity of making two or more articles to complete the model or set of articles desired. But it is not intended to convey the idea that other models... Equipment And Care Of The Shop
<p><em>Tool equipment</em>. The choice of tools in any particular shop best comes out of long experience. Some teachers prefer to emphasize certain processes or methods, others lay stress on different ones. The following tentative list is suggested fo... Face-plate And Chuck Turning
<p>Face-plate and chuck turning open an entirely new field of work from that taken up in previous chapters of this book. If handled correctly, it has much greater educational and practical value than cylinder turning. From the practical standpoint the... Finishing And Polishing
<p>To get a high and lasting polish on wood, the work must be first sanded so as to be perfectly smooth. In addition to this, open grained wood, such as oak, must be properly filled with a wood filler. If properly sharpened tools have been used very l... Glue
<p>Glue is an inferior kind of gelatin, and is of two kinds,—animal glue and fish glue. Animal glue is made of bones and trimmings, cuttings and fleshings from hides and skins of animals. Sinews, feet, tails, snouts, ears, and horn pith are also... Grinding And Whetting Turning Tools
<p>Skew Chisel</a></p> <p>The skew chisel is sharpened equally on both sides On this tool the cutting edge should form an angle of about 20° with one of the edges. The skew is used in cutting both to the right and to the left, and therefore, mus... Halving-joints
<p>A halved joint is one in which half the thickness of each member is notched out and the remaining portion of one just fits into the notch in the other, so that the upper and under surfaces of the members are flush.</p> <p><em>No. 14. A cross-lap... Heading Joints
<p><em>No. 1. A lapped and strapped joint</em> is made by laying the end of one timber over another and fastening them both together with bent straps on the ends of which are screws by which they may be tightened. It is a very strong joint and is us... Hinges
<p>Hinges, Fig. 233, are made in several forms. The most common are the butt-hinge or butt, the two leaves of which are rectangular, as in a door-hinge; the strap-hinge, the leaves of which are long and strap-shaped; the Tee-hinge, one leaf of which i... Hinging
<p>In setting the hinges of a box cover, first see that the cover fits the box exactly all the way around.</p> <p>In the case of a door, see that it fits its frame, evenly all the way around, but with a little play. To insure a tighter fit at the sw... Holding The Tools
<p>All tools should be held firmly but not rigidly. The right hand should grasp the handle at the extreme end for two reasons: first, to give as much leverage as possible so that the tool will not be thrown from the hands in case it should catch in th... Holding Tools
<h4>A. <em>Tools for Holding Work</em>.</h4> <p>The advance in ease of handworking may largely be measured by the facilities for holding materials or other tools. The primitive man used no devices for holding except his hands and feet. The Japanese, ... Inserting Locks
<p>To insert a <em>rim-lock</em>, measure the distance from the selvage to the key-pin, locate this as the center of the keyhole, and bore the hole. If the lock has a selvage, gain out the edge of the door or drawer to receive it. If the lock box has... Internal Boring
<p>In roughing out the center for Napkin Rings, Jewel Boxes, etc., the quickest method is to work it out with a small gouge.</a></p> <p>Place the gouge on the rest parallel to the bed of the lathe, having the point even with the center of the stock.<... Introductory
<p>Wood turning has had a definite place in the commercial world for a great many years. It is used in various forms in making furniture and furniture parts, building trim, tool parts, toys, athletic paraphernalia and many other useful and beautiful a... Laying Off Measurements
<p>In laying off measurements on the face of the stock a pencil compass or dividers should be used. Set the compass or dividers to one-half the diameter of the circle wanted. While one point is held at the exact center of the stock, which is easily loc... Locks
<p>The chief parts of a lock are: the <em>bolt</em>, its essential feature, the <em>selvage</em>, the plate which appears at the edge of the door or drawer, the <em>box</em>, which contains the mechanism including the <em>tumbler</em>, <em>ward</em... Logging
<p>The rough and ready methods common in American logging operations are the result partly of a tradition of inexhaustible supply, partly of the fear of fire and the avoidance of taxes, partly of an eagerness to get rich quick. Most of the logging has... Measuring And Marking Tools
<p>It is a long step from the time when one inch meant the width of the thumb, and one foot meant the length of the foot, to the measuring of distances and of angles which vary almost infinitesimally. No such accuracy is necessary in measuring wood ... Mechanical Methods In Lumbering
<p>The operations described above are those common in the lumber regions of the northeast and the Lake States. But special conditions produce special methods. A very effective device where streams are small is the flume, Fig. 23. This is a long wooden... Methods Of Fastening Stock
<p>All the work thus far has been on models where the stock worked upon is held between the live and dead centers. In face-plate and chuck turning the work is done at the head stock only and the piece is supported by means of a face-plate, or chuck, t... Modified Halving Joints
<p><em>No. 20. A notched joint</em> is made by cutting out a portion of one timber. It is used where it is desired to reduce the height occupied by the upper timber. Joists are notched on to wall plates.</p> <div><img src="/images/Handwork/265-20.p... Mortise-and-tenon Joints
<p>The tenon in its simplest form is made by dividing the end of a piece of wood into three parts and cutting out rectangular pieces on both sides of the part left in the middle. The mortise is the rectangular hole cut to receive the tenon and is mad... Oval Turning
<p>Oval work as a problem in turning will be found to be a very good one as well as interesting to the pupil. It brings in the principle of the oval as used in ordinary shop practice; (arcs from points on the major and minor axes). For thick heavy oval... Planes
<p>The <em>plane</em> is a modified chisel. The chief difference in action between a chisel and a plane in paring is this: the back of the chisel lies close down on the surface of the wood that is cut, and acts as a guide; whereas, in the plane, the c... Points On Setting Up Lathe And Shafting
<p>The counter shaft should be about 7' above the lathe. A distance of 6' from the center of the shaft to the center of the spindle is sufficient. In setting a lathe or hanging a counter shaft it is necessary that both be level. The counter shaft must... Position Of The Operator
<p>The operator stands firmly on the floor back far enough from the lathe to allow him to pass the tools from right to left in front of his body without changing </a>the position of the feet. It may be found convenient to turn slightly, bringing the l... Pounding Tools
<p>The <em>hammer</em> consists of two distinct parts, the head and the handle. The head is made of steel, so hard that it will not be indented by hitting against nails or the butt of nailsets, punches, etc., which are comparatively soft. It can easil... Practical Suggestions For Storing Lumber
<p>Under the hasty methods prevalent in the mill, very little wood comes to the shop well seasoned, and it should therefore be carefully stored before using, so as to have the fullest possible air circulation around it. Where the boards are large enou... Principles Of Joinery11
<p>Footnote 11: Professor Rankine's Five Principles:</p> <p>1. To cut the joints and arrange the fastenings so as to weaken the pieces of timber they connect as little as possible.</p> <p>2. To place each abutting surface in a joint as nearly as possi... Rules For Finding The Speeds And Sizes Of Pulleys
<p>1. To find the diameter of the driving pulley:</a></p> <p>Multiply the diameter of the driven by the number of revolutions it should make and divide the product by the number of revolutions of the driver. (20 x 300 = 6000; 6000 ÷ 1500 = 4&qu... Sawmilling
<p>The principal saws in a mill are of three kinds, the circular, Fig. 32, the gang, Fig. 33, and the band, Fig. 34. The circular-saw, tho very rapid, is the most wasteful because of the wide kerf, and of course the larger the saw the thicker it is an... Saws
<div><img src="/images/Handwork/086-350.png" alt="Fig. 86. Hand Saw." width="350" height="117" /><br /> <br /> Fig. 86. Hand Saw.</div> <p>The object of the saw is to cut thru a piece of material along a determined line. Its efficiency depends... Scraping Tools
<p>Scraping tools are of such nature that they can only abrade or smooth surfaces.</p> <div><a href="/images/Handwork/142-148-800.png"><img src="/images/Handwork/142-148-600.png" alt="Fig. 142. Auger-Bit-File. Fig. 143. Single-Cut Blunt, Flat, Bastard ... Screws
<p>(a) <em>Wood-screws</em>, Fig. 229, may be classified by the material of which they are made; as, steel or brass. Steel screws may be either bright,—the common finish,—blued by heat or acid to hinder rusting, tinned, or bronzed. Brass s... Seasoning
<p>The seasoning of wood is important for several reasons. It reduces weight, it increases strength, it prevents changes in volume after it is worked into shape, and it prevents checking and decay. Decay can also be prevented by submergence and buryin... Sharpening Tools
<p>The <em>grindstone</em> for woodworking tools is best when rather fine and soft. The grinding surface should be straight and never concave. The stone should run as true as possible. It can be made true by using a piece of 1" gas pipe as a truing to... Speed Of The Lathe
<p>The speed of the lathe should range from 2400 to 3000 revolutions per minute when the belt is on the smallest step of the cone pulley. At this speed stock up to 3" in diameter can be turned with safety. Stock from 3" to 6" in diameter... Spindle Turning
<p>Spindle turning is the term applied to all work done on a lathe in which the stock to be worked upon is held firmly between the live and dead centers. There are two methods in common use in wood turning: first, the scraping or pattern-makers' metho... Spiral Turning
<p>Spiral turning is a subject that has received very little attention by most schools in which wood turning is taught. Spiral work is seen in antique furniture and also in the modern furniture of the present day. It seems that it takes the wheel of fa... The Care Of The Woodworking Shop
<p><em>The general arrangement of the room</em>. The important factors are the source or sources of light, and the lines of travel. The common arrangement of benches where two sides of the room are lighted, is shown in <em>a</em>, Fig. 238. By this ar... The Common Joints
<p>Wherever two or more pieces of wood are fastened together we have what is properly called joinery. In common usage the term indicates the framing of the interior wood finish of buildings and ships, but it is also used to include cabinet-making, whi... The Common Joints
<table summary="note" align="center" width="600"> <tbody> <tr> <td>Transcriber's Note: The following six pages of diagrams are as they appeared in the original book. They are of poor quality, and the page enlargements are not mu... The Lathe
<p>The sizes of turning lathes are given as 10", 12", etc. These figures denote the diameter, or size, of the largest piece of work that can be turned on them. The measurement is taken from the center point of the live center to the bed of t... To Center Stock
<p>If the wood to be turned is square or rectangular in shape the best way to locate the center is to draw diagonals across the end of the stock. The point of intersection locates the center.</a></p> <p><br /> <strong>CLAMPING STOCK IN THE L... To Figure The Diameter Of Pulleys
<p>Suppose a motor runs 1500 R.P.M. and is fitted with a 4" pulley. Suppose also, a main shaft should run 300 R.P.M.</a></p> <p> Then, 1500 : 300 :: x : 4;</a><br /> Or, 300x = 6000,<br /> x = 20, or the diameter of the large pulley on the m... Tool Processes In Face-plate And Chuck Turning
<p><a href="/images/WoodTurning/B-I--1-a.png">B-I--1-a</a>. Straight Cuts</p> <p>1. ROUGHING OFF CORNERS. (¾" GOUGE.) FIG. 14. The tool rest is set crosswise to the bed of the lathe and parallel to the face of the stock.</p> <p>Place th... Tool Processes In Spindle Turning
<p>Exercise </a><a href="/images/WoodTurning/A-I--1-a.png">A-I--1-a</a>. Straight Cuts</p> <p>1. THE ROUGHING CUT (LARGE GOUGE).</p> <p>FIG. 4. Place the gouge on the rest so that the level is above the wood and the cutting edge is tangent to the c... Types Of Wooden Structures
<p>The articles suitable to be made in wood with hand tools may for convenience be divided into four general classes: (1) Unjoined pieces; (2) board structures; (3) panel structures; (4) framed structures. A few illustrations of each class are given b... Use Of Scraping Tools
<p>When scraping is to be employed, it should be done with only those tools that are made for that purpose, i.e., Square Nose, Round Nose, Spear Point, Right and Left Skew. The handling of these tools will be found easy. The only point to remember is ... Use Of The Tools In Spindle Turning
<p>The correct use of the various tools used in spindle turning will be explained in detail as the steps are worked out in the sequence of operations on the exercises in Section A-I.</a></p> ... Wood Fastenings
<p>The following are the chief means by which pieces of wood are fastened together: nails, screws, bolts, plates, dowels, glue, hinges, and locks.</p> <h4>NAILS</h4> <p><em>Nails</em>, Fig. 226, may be classified according to the material of which t... Wood Finishing
<h4>STAINS.</h4> <p>The function of stains is to change the color, and to enchance the grain and texture of the wood. Stains may be divided into four general classes, which are not, however, entirely distinct. (1) Oil stains, (2) Water stains, (a) ma... Wood Hand Tools
<p>The hand tools in common use in woodworking shops may, for convenience, be divided into the following classes: 1, Cutting; 2, Boring; 3, Chopping; 4, Scraping; 5, Pounding; 6, Holding; 7, Measuring and Marking; 8, Sharpening; 9, Cleaning.</p> <h4>... Wood Measurements
<p>Lumber is a general term for all kinds of sawn wood. Logs may be sawn into timber, that is, beams and joists, into planks, which are 2" to 4" thick, or into boards which are from ¼" to 1¾" thick. These may be resaw... Wood Turning Tools
<p>A wood turning kit should consist of one each of the following tools. Fig. 2 shows the general shape of these tools.</a></p> <p> 1¼" Gouge</a><br /> ¾" Gouge<br /> ½" Gouge<br /> ¼" Gouge<br /...